Monday, June 16, 2008

 

The hottest thing in my kitchen

While cooking up a batch of Bacon Bac-o-bake I started to think about all the times I'd seen people cooking with bananas. It always seemed an exciting magical experience. This was not it. "What am I missing?" I asked myself. The answer came to me in a flash:
Flames
I had been neglecting the hottest thing in my kitchen. Contrary to popular belief, Courtney is not the hottest thing in my kitchen. Obviously, she's not even IN my kitchen. While she might rank above the stove and my oven, she's got a ways to go to hit 2400°
I have a blowtorch. All great chefs have a blow torch. Most go with the industrial size propane blowtorch used by plumbers. I do not have room in my kitchen for such luxury, and I suspect the apartment complex might not be happy with my stockpiling of propane tanks. I have a handheld butane torch. I still have fond memories of Julia Child donning the safety goggles and giggling with delight as she blow torched something delicious. So then I asked myself: WWJD (What would Julia do?)
Bananas, and sugar. It's really that easy. Well, of course it's not EASY, but it's fun. It's chemistry. It's not kid friendly. There is a chance of burning the house down. This is my kind of stuff!
Take a banana, skin on, and give it one "steak cut" and then one "fillet cut." Fill a shallow dish with a thick layer of sugar, and then press the cut side of the banana into the sugar to coat. Then crank up sparky.
When using a blowtorch, you need to remember your chemistry class. First of all you need safety glasses. Second, all cooking should be done on a fire proof surface. (I placed them on baking racks on a foil lined pan, placed on top of my stove.) Third, you'll be using flames, so you should assume all metal and glass is hot since you cannot SEE temperature. (This same rule applies at Ruth's Chris Steakhouse.)
My torch does not have a built in igniter. This does prove to be a bit inconvenient, however it is also a BIG safety feature. There's nothing worse than walking around with a butane blow torch in your pocket that accidentally ignites when you sit down. I turn on the butane, light the flame with a lighter, and adjust the air intake until I get a sharp blue flame. The tip of that flame is the hottest part and that's what you cook with. Wave back and forth over the sugar until it melts and begins to darken. It starts slow, but you have to be careful. It goes from solid to liquid to burnt in mere seconds. It is 2400 degrees you know! With a little practice you can get the hang of it.
When you are done, wait a minute or so before you peel off the banana peel. The sugar is super hot and will stick to you while it burns you. Think of it as a sweet and tasty napalm.
This is not one of those "make ahead" kind of desserts. It's probably best to do table side. If you cut the bananas early they go brown or get yucky. Adding the sugar to the bananas makes a neat science project, but an unappetizing dessert.
Bananas are actually quite juicy. Sugar is amazingly hygroscopic. That means it absorbs water. This is why sugary cookies get soft when they get stale. They suck water out of the surrounding air.
Here is a good science fair project that you can do at home to learn about the hygroscopic effects of sugar. (It's also a tasty experiment, which is good too!)
Peel your bananas and eat them as soon as possible after you torch them, again allowing time for the sugar to solidify. If you let them sit more than 15 minutes or so the crisp sugar "crust" will have pulled enough moisture that it won't be crisp. Within 30 minutes, you'll have brown liquid goo that drips off the bananas onto the pan below. Neat from a scientific standpoint. Sad from a tasty dessert standpoint.
Krystal Lovers like it steamy.

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